A 3 Position 6 terminal toggle switch can be used in many other applications and in many other wiring variations. Here we’ll cover how to use a 3 position 6 blade toggle to run a 12Volt DC motor or 12Volt actuator in forward and reverse directions. This isn’t a very complicated procedure and we’re confident that most folks should be able to accomplish this task.
- Contexts 3 4 4 – Fast Window Switcher Wiring System
- Contexts 3 4 4 – Fast Window Switcher Wiring Panel
- Contexts 3 4 4 – Fast Window Switcher Wiring Kit
- Contexts 3 4 4 – Fast Window Switcher Wiring Diagram
- Contexts 3 4 4 – Fast Window Switcher Wiring Schematic
- Contexts 3 4 4 – Fast Window Switcher Wiring Harness
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Let’s say we have a 12Volt DC motor that we’d like to have spin in one direction sometimes and other times spin in the opposite direction. If we connect the motor’s positive power wire to a 12Volt battery’s positive terminal, and the motor’s negative power wire to the 12Volt battery’s negative terminal the motor would spin forward.
On the other hand:
If we connect the motor’s positive power wire to the 12Volt battery’s negative terminal and the motor’s negative power wire to the 12Volt battery’s positive terminal (otherwise known as “Reverse Polarity”) the motor will spin backward.
On the other hand:
If we connect the motor’s positive power wire to the 12Volt battery’s negative terminal and the motor’s negative power wire to the 12Volt battery’s positive terminal (otherwise known as “Reverse Polarity”) the motor will spin backward.
This can also be done for a 12Volt DC actuator. For example, a door lock actuator will thrust outward with a straight connection to a 12Volt battery. When the polarity is reversed (actuator is hooked up “backwards” to the 12Volt battery) the actuator will be retracted inward. Connection and thrust directions may vary from model to model but the idea is the same for all two position 12Volt DC actuators.
So let’s hook-up that 6 terminal toggle switch!
The very first step is ALWAYS to make sure that your toggle switch is rated to handle the amount of power your DC motor or DC actuator will draw. If your motor is rated at 15 amps you will need a toggle that rated at or above 15 amps. It is normally a good idea to use a switch with a rating higher than what your motor needs. There’s just no sense in pushing the toggle to it’s limits and risking damage.
The second and likely the most obvious is to find the perfect location. We’ll leave this up to you. Just make sure to leave room for the wires and wire terminals you will use.
The third step should be to run the wiring to your 12Volt motor or 12Volt actuator. Connecting the toggle switch to your 12Volt battery should be the VERY LAST step.
Here is an example of how to hook-up either a 12Volt Motor or a 12Volt DC actuator. They are both done the same way.
What it all boils down to is this, you will have two wires to hook-up to your 12Volt battery and two wires to hook-up to your motor or actuator. Actually using red and black wire helps to keep your head straight too.
Contexts 3 4 4 – Fast Window Switcher Wiring System
Terminal wire A connects to terminal wire F and then to the positive lead of your 12Volt DC motor or DC actuator. Terminal wire B connects to terminal wire E and then to the negative lead of your 12Volt DC motor or DC actuator.
Now when the toggle is in the “Center” or “OFF” position it is not contacting either A-B or E-F. When the toggle is flipped forward the C terminal will internally make a connection to the A terminal, at the same time; the D terminal will internally make a connection to the B terminal. When the toggle is flipped back past “OFF” to the backward position the internal connections become C to E and D to F. For a better understanding of how toggle and rocker switches work; look for our Knowledge Base article on “How Toggle and Rocker Switches Work”.
When the switch is in the forward position the power is sent from the 12Volt battery to the DC motor or DC actuator in a “straight” fashion. e.g. Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative. When the switch is in the backward position the power is sent from the 12Volt battery to the DC motor or DC actuator in a “flipped” fashion. e.g. The battery’s Positive gets connected to the motor’s Negative and the battery’s Negative gets connected to the motor’s Positive. Sounds a bit backwards but that’s the idea, isn’t it?
It shouldn’t matter which end of the switch body you consider “A-B” so long as the opposite end is treated as “E-F”.
This can also be done with a 2 position switch but it will always be in an “ON” position. This would likely not be good for dc actuators or any other dc powered item that you wouldn’t want to run continuously.
In addition: If your application only requires power to be delivered for a short period of time you will most likely want to use a “Momentary” type switch. If your application requires that power be delivered continuously over a long period of time you will likely want to use a “Constant” type switch.
6-Blade 3-Position Toggle Switch | Toggle Switches | Wire Terminals
TEST 1: Checking The Wiper Fuse Input
The very first thing you need to do is to make sure that the wiper fuse is OK.
So, please pull out the wiper fuse from the instrument panel fuse box and make sure it's not blown.
If the wiper fuse is blown, then you have found the solution to the ‘no wiper’ problem.
If the fuse is NOT blown, then the next step is to make sure that the wiper switch (inside the Multi-Function Switch) is getting voltage from the wiper fuse.
This will require that you disconnect the Multi-Function Switch's Gray connector to identify the 3 wires you need to test. IMPORTANT: If you haven't already disabled the air bag system, do so now. You can find the instructions here: Disabling the Air Bag System (SIR).
Contexts 3 4 4 – Fast Window Switcher Wiring Panel
Once you have identified the circuits that need to be tested (we'll be testing a total of 3), make sure you reconnect the Gray Multi-Function Switch connector to the instrument panel harness connector.
This is what you'll need to do:
- Locate the circuit (wire) labeled with the number 4 of the Multi-Function Switch's Gray connector.
- With an appropriate tool (like a Wire Piercing Probe), probe the wire between the Gray connector and the Switch.
- Connect the red multimeter test lead to the tool piercing the wire.
- Set your multimeter to Volts DC mode.
- Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
- Ground the black multimeter test lead on a good Ground point.
- The best way to do this is to use a battery jump start cable to Ground the black multimeter test lead directly to the battery negative terminal.
- Your multimeter will register one of two things: battery voltage (10 to 12 Volts) or No voltage at all.
Let's interpret your multimeter test result:
CASE 1: Your multimeter registered the indicated voltage- So far so good. The next step is t make sure that the wiper switch is re-directing the voltage to the wiper motor in High speed. Go to: TEST 2.
Contexts 3 4 4 – Fast Window Switcher Wiring Kit
CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT register the indicated voltage. Re-check your connections, make sure you're testing the correct wire and repeat the test.
If your multimeter still does not register battery voltage, then this tells one of three things:
- The wiper fuse is blown.
- There's an ‘open-circuit’ problem in the wiring between the Gray connector and the instrument panel fuse box (although this would be extremely rare).
This test result also tells you that the wiper switch is OK and not bad, since without this battery voltage, from the fuse, the wiper switch won't work. You'll need to troubleshoot and diagnose this missing voltage before continuing any further.
TEST 2: High Speed Wiper Circuit Test
IMPORTANT: If you haven't already disabled the air bag system, do so now. You can find the instructions here: Disabling the Air Bag System (SIR).
So far, you have visually checked the wiper fuse and it's OK. You've also verified that the wiper switch is being fed this power (from the wiper fuse) by testing circuit number 3 of the Gray connector (TEST 1).
The next step is to check that the wiper High Speed circuit inside the wiper switch is actually doing its job and routing battery power to the wiper motor when you select the High Speed on the wiper switch.
The circuit (wire) that sends this voltage to the wiper motor is the one that's labeled with the number 3 of the Gray Multi-Function Switch Connector.
OK, this is what you'll need to do:
Contexts 3 4 4 – Fast Window Switcher Wiring Diagram
- Identify the circuit labeled with the number 3 of the Gray connector.
- With an appropriate tool (like a Wire Piercing Probe), probe the wire between the Gray connector and the switch.
- The Gray connector must remain connected to the instrument panel harness connector at all times during this test.
- Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
- Set your multimeter to Volts DC mode.
- Ground the black multimeter test lead on a good Ground point.
- Use a battery jump start cable (if you have one) to Ground the black multimeter test lead directly to the battery negative terminal.
- Turn the wiper switch to its High position.
- Your multimeter should register battery voltage (in the range of 10 to 12 Volts DC).
Let's see what your test result means:
CASE 1: battery voltage (10 to 12 Volts) was present- This is the normal and expected test result and tells you that the High speed circuit inside the wiper switch is OK.
If your GM pickup, van, SUV or mini-van is experiencing a ‘No High Speed Wiper’ problem, then you have eliminated the wiper switch as the cause. The most likely cause will be a bad wiper motor.
Contexts 3 4 4 – Fast Window Switcher Wiring Schematic
The next test, TEST 3, will help you to check the Low speed wiper switch circuit.
CASE 2: Battery voltage (10 to 12 Volts) WAS NOT present- Make sure that that you're testing the correct wire, re-check all of your multimeter connections and repeat the test one more time.
If your multimeter still did not register any voltage (with the Key On), then the wiper switch is bad and needs to be replaced.
Contexts 3 4 4 – Fast Window Switcher Wiring Harness
There's one more test, that you can do (which is a resistance test of the high speed circuit inside the wiper switch) if you would like to further test the wiper switch and you can find it here: TEST 5: High Speed Circuit Resistance Test.